Sample Approval and Tech Pack Release Procedure

Purpose. This procedure defines how a design moves from first pattern through fit and pre-production samples to a released tech pack that Production can cut against.

1.Stages

Every new style passes through four stages: first pattern and toile, fit sample, pre-production sample and sealed sample. The tech pack in the Tech Pack Register moves through the statuses Draft, In development, Fit review, Approved and Superseded. Only a tech pack at Approved will be attached to a work order.

2.First pattern

The patternmaker drafts the first pattern from the technical drawing and the block nominated in the tech pack, records the base size and block version, and cuts a toile or first sample in the sample room. The Design Studio reviews the sample against the design intent and records comments in the tech pack notes.

3.Fit session

Fit samples are assessed on the fit model or dress form for the base size with the designer, patternmaker and, where the client attends, the client. Every alteration must be written on the fit comment sheet with the measurement change and the reason. The patternmaker applies the changes, updates the measurement specification and increments the pattern version. A style that needs more than two fit rounds must be reviewed by the Pattern Room Supervisor before a third sample is cut.

4.Grading and marker

When the base size is approved, the pattern is graded to the size range in the tech pack using the grade rules for the block family. The graded nest must be checked for smooth progression and the measurement specification updated for every size. A costing marker is made and the marker efficiency and fabric consumption per garment recorded in the tech pack.

5.Pre-production and sealed sample

A pre-production sample must be made in bulk fabric and trims, on production machines, following the construction sequence. It is measured against the specification and inspected against the quality checklist. When the client signs the sample, it is tagged as the sealed sample, stored in the sample archive and its tag number recorded in the tech pack. The tech pack is then set to Approved by the Pattern Room Supervisor.

• Technical drawing, front and back
• Measurement specification with tolerances for every size
• Bill of materials with supplier article numbers
• Construction sequence and stitch specification
• Labelling, care instructions and packing method
• Sealed sample tag number and client signature date

6.Changes after release

A change to any element of an approved tech pack must be raised as a new version. The previous version is set to Superseded and Production must be told in writing which work orders are affected. Work already cut to the superseded version is reviewed by the Quality and WHS Coordinator and either accepted with concession or reworked.