Lay-up, Marking and Cutting Procedure

Purpose. This procedure sets out how cutting room staff lay up fabric, place or print the marker, cut, bundle and record a work order so that every cut matches the tech pack and the marker.

1.Before you start

The cutter must confirm that the work order is at status Released, that the tech pack version on the work order matches the version in the Tech Pack Register and that the marker printout carries the same marker number. Fabric rolls must be checked against the materials issue slip for article number, colour and shade band. Rolls from different shade bands must not be mixed in one lay unless the tech pack allows it.

2.Fabric preparation

Knit fabrics must be relaxed on the table for the time stated in the tech pack before cutting. Fabrics with a nap, pile, one-way print or check must be laid face up in one direction and the marker must show the direction. Faults marked on the roll must be flagged on the lay and the marker moved or a splice made so that no fault falls within a pattern piece.

3.Lay-up

Spread the fabric without tension, aligning the selvedge to the table edge guide, to the ply count on the work order. Count plies at the end of each roll and record the ply count and metres used on the work order. Splices must be made only at the splice marks on the marker. The maximum lay height for each fabric type is shown in the cutting room reference card and must not be exceeded.

• Woven shirting: maximum 80 plies
• Cotton drill and twill: maximum 60 plies
• Single jersey knit: maximum 40 plies, relaxed 12 hours
• PVC and coated canvas: maximum 10 plies, cut with the band knife

4.Marker placement and check

Lay the marker paper on the top ply with the grain line parallel to the selvedge and check that the marker length and width fit the lay. Confirm that every pattern piece for every size on the work order appears on the marker by checking the piece count against the marker report. Sign the marker check box on the work order before cutting begins.

5.Cutting

Straight knife cutting must be done with the mesh glove on the non-cutting hand, the blade guard set to the lay height and the knife sharpened at the start of each shift. Cut large pieces first, then small pieces on the band knife where the tech pack calls for it. Notches must be cut to the depth on the pattern and drill holes placed with the drill marker only. Stop cutting and report to the Production Manager if the blade wanders, the fabric moves or a piece cannot be cut to the line.

6.Bundling and ticketing

Bundle cut pieces by size and shade in the order shown on the work order and attach a bundle ticket showing the work order number, style, size, colour, shade band, ply numbers and piece count. Record the actual pieces cut and any shortfall on the work order and move the work order to status Cut. Fabric remnants over one metre must be returned to stock with a remnant ticket.

7.Records

The cutter must complete the cut record section of the work order, including fabric used, marker efficiency achieved and any faults or splices, and enter a cut inspection in the Quality Inspection Log before bundles leave the cutting room.